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French dermocosmetics brand combining dermatological expertise with scientific innovation — part of our first edition.
Discover the brand →French dermocosmetics brand combining dermatological expertise with scientific innovation — part of our first edition.
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Centella asiatica is a herbaceous plant from the Apiaceae family, widely used in cosmetics as a source of botanical extracts. In formulations it most often appears as extracts from aerial parts or leaves, declared under INCI names such as Centella Asiatica Extract or Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, alongside other closely related centella-derived entries. Extracts may be prepared in water, glycerin, or other cosmetic solvents and are frequently standardised to characteristic triterpene fractions often referred to in cosmetic literature as “centellosides” (e.g., asiaticoside, madecassoside) or as a titrated extract. In skincare it is incorporated into a range of textures including creams, serums, gels, and emulsions, typically as a botanical component of the water phase or as a solubilised extract. Labels may also list cell-culture derived materials (e.g., callus/meristem cell culture) or leaf water, which remain centella-derived materials from the same botanical source. When used in food supplements, it is generally presented as a plant extract in capsules or powders, with specifications that vary by manufacturer.
Collagen is a family of fibrous proteins naturally present in animal connective tissues and, in consumer products, it is most commonly sourced from bovine, porcine, or marine raw materials. In supplements it is frequently used as hydrolysed collagen, also labelled as “collagen peptides”, where the protein is broken down into smaller peptides to improve solubility and ease of use in powders, capsules, tablets, and ready-to-mix drinks. On labels it may appear as “hydrolyzed collagen” or “collagen peptides”, with the origin sometimes specified as marine, bovine, or porcine. In cosmetics, collagen is typically declared under the INCI name “Hydrolyzed Collagen” and is used in water-based formulas such as serums, creams, and masks, often at modest concentrations alongside humectants and film-forming polymers. As a material, it is a mixture primarily composed of amino acids, peptides, and proteins, with properties influenced by the source and degree of hydrolysis. Because it is protein-based, collagen-containing products can have a characteristic taste or odour, so flavoured options are also common.
Hyaluronic acid is a high–molecular weight polysaccharide (a glycosaminoglycan) that occurs naturally in connective tissues and body fluids. In cosmetic products it is very often present as the more water‑soluble salt Sodium Hyaluronate, and also as modified forms such as Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, selected for molecular weight and skin feel. The raw material is commonly obtained via biotechnological fermentation and supplied as a powder or as an aqueous solution for easy incorporation into formulas. In skincare it is used in serums, creams, masks and eye products, where it contributes to texture and a smooth application sensorial. In food supplements it may appear as hyaluronan or sodium hyaluronate, typically in capsules or tablets, frequently alongside other structural ingredients. Modern formulations often combine multiple molecular weights or crosslinked derivatives (crosspolymers) to fine‑tune viscosity and product stability.
Coenzyme Q10 is a lipophilic benzoquinone (ubiquinone-10) that occurs naturally in human cells and in many foods in small amounts. In food supplements it is typically provided as ubiquinone (the oxidised form) or ubiquinol (the reduced form), commonly dispersed in oils or microencapsulated for softgels, capsules or powders. In cosmetics it is most often declared under the INCI name “Ubiquinone” and is used in emulsions such as face creams, eye-area products, serums and body lotions. As a fat-soluble molecule, it is usually formulated into the oil phase and paired with other formula antioxidants to support stability. On labels it may also appear as “ubidecarenone”, a naming variant used in some markets for the same substance. Cosmetic- and supplement-grade material may be produced by fermentation or synthesis and then standardised for purity.
Salicylic acid is an aromatic organic acid (2‑hydroxybenzoic acid) that occurs naturally in some plants and is widely used as a functional cosmetic ingredient. In formulations it appears as a crystalline powder and is typically incorporated via suitable phases/solvent systems, used either as the free acid or as salicylate salts (e.g., sodium salicylate, potassium salicylate, TEA‑salicylate). In skincare it is found in both leave‑on and rinse‑off products such as gels, serums, toners, creams, and cleansers, where the level is commonly expressed as “acid” (salicylic‑acid equivalent). In haircare it can be present in shampoos and scalp products. In some formulations it may also be used as a preservative, under specific regulatory conditions. pH selection and solubilisation strategy are part of the formulation design to keep the ingredient stable and compatible with other components.
Vitamin D3 (cholecalciferol) is a fat-soluble vitamin naturally present in the body and in some animal-derived foods. In dietary supplements, it is commonly used as cholecalciferol, dissolved in oil and measured in micrograms (µg) or international units (IU), in soft capsules, drops, or tablets. The raw material can come from lanolin (sheep wool fat) or from vegan sources through fermentation and subsequent processing. In cosmetic formulations, it may appear as an ingredient in small amounts, usually listed on the label with the INCI name "Cholecalciferol." As a substance, it is a derivative of sterols with a lipophilic structure, often combined with oil carriers for stability and distribution. In products, the designation "D3" is used to distinguish it from vitamin D2 (ergocalciferol), which is another form of vitamin D.
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Chondroitin sulfate is a glycosaminoglycan, meaning a long polysaccharide built from repeating disaccharide units, naturally present in connective tissues and especially in cartilage. In food supplements it is most commonly listed as “chondroitin sulfate” or as a sodium salt, supplied as capsules, tablets, powders, or sachets. Traditional raw-material sources include bovine, porcine, avian, and cartilaginous fish cartilage, while some products use chondroitin sulfate made via microbial fermentation followed by sulfation. Composition and molecular weight can vary with the source and purification process, so labels often specify the form and origin. In cosmetics it may appear as a skin-conditioning/humectant ingredient in topical formulas, typically using water-soluble derivatives and low concentrations suited to leave-on or rinse-off products.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a perennial herbaceous plant from the Asteraceae family, widely found across Europe and beyond. In supplements it is typically used as a botanical extract from the root and/or leaves, presented as a powder, capsule, tablet, or liquid, with specifications that vary by plant part and extraction method. In cosmetics it appears under INCI naming, most commonly as “Taraxacum Officinale Extract”, as well as more specific variants that indicate the plant part (e.g., root or aerial parts). Extracts may be water-based, glycerin-based, or hydroalcoholic and are incorporated into formulas such as serums, creams, toners, and scalp-care products. The plant’s natural composition includes a complex mixture of botanical constituents such as polyphenols and sesquiterpene lactones, which can vary with origin and standardisation. On labels, the Latin botanical name is commonly used to ensure precise identification of the species.
Rose hip (Rosa canina) is a wild rose species; in products, the main material used is its fruit, commonly called the “hip”, as well as the seeds. In supplements it appears as dried fruit powder, fruit extract (e.g., extraction ratios such as 4:1), or as a standardised extract, typically presented in capsules, tablets, powders, or blended botanical formulas. In cosmetics it is listed under INCI names such as Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, or Rosa Canina Seed Oil, used in oils, serums, creams, and balms. The raw material may be produced with carriers/solvents such as glycerin or glycols for extracts, or by pressing/extraction for oils from the fruit or seeds. On labels it may also be written as “rosehip” or “dog rose”, referring to the same botanical species.
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